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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.